Feta in Iowa

I was happy to find, a number of years ago, Bulgarian white brined sheep’s milk cheese–which may not be called feta, because the Greek cheese is a protected, designation of origin product in the European Union, and only cheese produced in Greece can officially use the name feta. The only Greek versions one can find, though, tend to be dry, more salty and often not in brine, sometimes with herbs, ready for salads. I won’t name any brands, but they are usually the only ones available in most supermarkets. You have to go to some of the ethnic markets in Des Moines or Iowa City to find good Bulgarian “бяло сирене” or white cheese. This is one of the best feta-like (trying to stay legal here) cheeses, and not just according to me, but to all the Greek students that I’ve hosted over the years, who begrudgingly acknowledge that this is the best you can find in Iowa, and rivals what they have in Greece. It used to come in tins when I first started buying it (see the picture), but they started using plastic a number of years ago. Each tub has a two pound block in brine, and, once opened, it will last a couple weeks. This can sometimes be a slow-moving item, so check the expiration date.

In Bulgaria, this cheese is a staple of every kitchen, and served in every restaurant–in recipes, and plain, perhaps with a sprinkling of paprika or olive oil. I first encountered it as a student in Sofia back in the late 1980s. I liked ordering it in restaurants, where they would serve a large slab on a small plate with a fork for each person at the table, and everyone shared from the common plate. It’s also a key ingredient in Шопска Салата, and other Greek-style salads, and also nice as a side with any grilled meats, or hearty stews.

I’ve lately not been able to get through the two pounds as easily as I used to, and have been keeping my eye open for other options, since it’s a shame to see any of this wonderful cheese go to waste. Trader Joe’s has a decent 1 pound tub of Greek feta, and I also recently found Egyptian cheese at Hilel Groceries in Des Moines. Not as interested as the Bulgarians in EU law, the Egyptians label their version as feta, and it is amazing. It’s softer than the Bulgarian, but just as rich and flavorful. It’s almost as if they blended feta with labne, and is almost spreadable. Good stuff!