Over the years I’ve tried a lot of pheasant recipes, and this is one that I like because it utilizes the entire bird (with something left over for other dishes), and offers an almost foolproof way to avoid errant birdshot. Pheasant is a lean bird, and some recipes can turn out pretty dry, but this one is an exception. It’s also pretty elegant, while being fairly easy, so it’s a nice dish for formal occasion.
Most hunters these days skin pheasants, rather than pluck them, and this recipe assumes skinned whole pheasants.
Consommé
The first step is to remove the breasts, trying to retain as much of the breast meat as possible. Put the breasts in a bowl, and refrigerate as you begin the consommé, which utilizes the rest of the bird.
ingredients:
legs and bones from two pheasants; try to remove as possible all birdshot.
one onion, chopped
2 carrots, chopped
2 ribs celery, chopped
stems from one bunch parsley
4-5 sprigs fresh thyme
1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns
two bay leaves
2 cloves garlic
1-2 quarts homemade chicken stock (or store-bought; make sure it is low sodium, so you can adjust the seasoning later)
1-2 quarts cold water (depending on how much stock you’re using; the more stock you start with, the richer the end result)
Place all ingredients in a stock pot, and bring slowly to a boil, and then simmer on very low 3-4 hours on low heat, until the meat of the legs falls off the bone. Strain stock through very fine strainer (or cheesecloth) into 3 qt sauce pan, and continue to simmer, adjusting the seasoning as necessary. I sometimes add some good quality chicken stock base, which will make the stock richer. The consommé should be clear; traditional consommés are made with a raft of ground meat and egg whites, which helps remove fat content and clarify the stock; pheasants are virtually fat-free, so I don’t worry too much about this. Set the consommé aside, and let the strained legs cool. Then remove as much of the meat as possible, and reserve for a later use (such as pheasant fried rice, a recipe I’ll hope to post at a later date).
Quenelles:
breasts of 2 wild pheasants
3 egg whites
1/4-1/2 cup heavy whipping cream
1/2 teaspoon ground pink peppercorns
1/2 teaspoon minced green peppercorns in brine
1 tsp salt
2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives
Take the breasts, and carefully cut into 1/2 inch slices; hold each slice up to strong light; any bird shot will show up–sort of like on an x-ray. Then cut each strip in half, and put in a food processor. Once you have all the breast meat cut up, puree the breast meat until it forms a smooth paste. Take care not to over process. Put in a mixing bowl, and remove any tendons; there may be quite a few, and it is essential to get as many as possible. Once the meat is smooth, add the spices, salt, and chives, and mix. Then, beat the three egg whites to add a little air, and add to the meat mixture. Finally, add 1/4 cup of the cream, and incorporate into the mixture. At this point, it’s a good idea to test a little of the meat in some simmering stock (or even water), to check consistency, and to adjust seasonings. Too much egg white, and the quenelle will be rubbery; too much cream, and it won’t hold together well. The ideal balance should yield a firm but tender bite.
Now, bring the consommé to a simmer, and make the quenelles by taking two tablespoons, scooping up a large tablespoon of the mixture, and form football shapes. You should end up with about 12-15 quenelles. Drop them gently into the consommé, and simmer on low for about 7-10, until just cooked through. To be on the safe side, I like to pull one out after 7 minutes, and cut it in half, to check doneness.
Variations:
You can add other ingredients to the quenelle mixture, and you can also add different kinds of spices and herbs. I’ve made these with cooked wild rice, for example, which gave them a rich, earthy flavor; you could also add cooked white rice to stretch the recipe and add some texture. Finely minced green onions could be substituted in for the chives. I also sometimes add wild morels, when I can get them–sautéed and minced.
Serve the quenelles in a small bowl of consommé, with some chives sprinkled in.
FoodIowa 